Ostia Antica: the City

Ostia Antica is known as “Ancient Rome’s seaport.” We went there with our friends Chuck and Monica, then again with Willie and Kathryn. Like Pompeii, Ostia Antica is a snapshot of the Roman Empire. With its population declining for a few hundred years and finally abandoned in the 9th century CE, Ostia Antica was never built over. So, what you see (at least in layout) is pretty much what any Roman emperor would have seen were he to visit this city during his reign. This is what the city looks like today:

At the end of the 3rd century CE, Ostia Antica looked something like this:

In the 3rd century CE, Ostia Antica was Ostia and had been since maybe the 7th century BCE. The best supported archaeological evidence dated to the 3rd century BCE suggests Ostia began as a military encampment at the mouth (“ost” is mouth in Latin) of the Tiber River (which flows through Rome). Gradually, a center of maritime trade grew around the fort. Julius Caesar in particular developed the harbor to handle the import of massive amounts of grain that he distributed to the citizens of Rome thereby ensuring their “cooperation.” By the third century CE, the population reached maybe 100,000. Unfortunately, the Tiber dumped a lot of silt at its mouth making the harbor unnavigable and, eventually, a new port was built a few kilometers north (currently it’s beneath Fiumicino International Airport). Ostia then became a destination for rich Romans to build coastal villas. The population of Ostia began a slow, steady decline with the fall of the Roman Empire. By the 9th century CE, the city was completely abandoned. Oh, and the silt from the Tiber continued to build up until the coastline is now 3 miles west of Ostia. There’s a new beachfront community actually on the beach called Ostia. Hence, Rome’s Ostia became Ostia Antica (=Ancient Ostia).

If you are in Rome and want to visit Pompeii, I would suggest Ostia Antica. Day trips to Pompeii from Rome make for a very long day (3+ hours each way). Pompeii is huge so you may not see as much as you want. Pompeii can be very crowded (again, you may not see as much as your want). Finally, Pompeii’s frescoes and mosaics have been moved to the archaeological museum in Naples. Ostia Antica is maybe an hour away. It’s small but you definitely get the idea of what a Roman city was like. It’s very uncrowded. If you’re in Rome with one day to see a preserved Roman city, I’d go to Ostia Antica. See what you think:

The road into the east gate of Ostia Antica goes through a necropolis or cemetery. This is a a family mausoleum. There would have been a roof and the niches would have contained urns with ashes.
This sign hung over the Porta Romana Gate (east gate into Ostia) proclaiming “THE SENATE AND THE PEOPLE OF THE COLONY OF OSTIA CONSTRUCTED THE WALLS.”
Stores and warehouses.
Theater exterior.
Theater.
Theater decoration.
Road to theater.
Residential street with apartments above; stores, bars, and thermopolia (fast food joints) at street level.
Thermopolium.
What’s for sale today?
Close-up of what is being sold today.
Residential street.
Bread bakery- wheat goes in the top, slaves or donkeys push wooden beams in the holes to turn upper rock, and flour comes out at the bottom of the upper rock.
Public baths.
The hot room (caldarium) at a bath was heated by circulating fire-heated air through these ducts made from clay pipes.
Heating ducts.
This was the house of an early Christian family. How do we know? If you look at the lintel over the column on the left you see…
…what appears to be a “X” over and “P.” These are the Greek letters Chi and Rho, the first 2 letters in CHRISTOS (Greek for Christ). Superimposed, these letters form an early symbol that identified followers of the Christian faith.

Public latrines: This is probably what everyone has been waiting for. (Didn’t see this in Pompeii).

On entry, you got a piece of sponge on a stick for clean-up afterwards.

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